Day 62-70: Mammoth Lakes to Kennedy Meadows North

Mile 903.3-1016.9

Unfortunately I couldn’t get the cell service to post this from Kennedy Meadows North to post this. I am already in South Lake Tahoe as I am writing this, but will include the last section in the next update.

I left Mammoth Lakes in the afternoon after only spending one night to avoid Memorial Day prices. The first day I just hiked 4 miles to get into the backcountry. The next day was an interesting one, as I took the route less traveled. The John Muir trail and the PCT overlap for most of the length of the former, except for a quick 13 mile section near Mammoth. The JMT goes by several alpine lakes and is much tougher, but also more scenic than the PCT. Of course, I had to go for the JMT. Sure enough, it was a slog, but it was worth it if only to see Garnet Lake, a spot most thru hikers miss.

Garnet Lake

I actually felt great most of the day despite the extra climbing, until I faced the most soul crushing tenth of a mile I have ever hiked. Over one snow patch, I must have broken through the snow (post holed) at least 15 times, with 5 of them being thigh deep.

Can you see the bottom of this post hole? Yeah, me neither

I got back to the PCT that night and camped overlooking the beautiful thousand island lake.

Thousand Island Lake

The next day it was up and over Donahue pass and into Yosemite national park. The ascent was tough and filled with… yup, more post holing. The scenery on the other side, however, was absolutely gorgeous.

The rest of the day consisted of flat hiking to Tuolumne Meadows and Tioga Pass Road, the first the PCT crossed since Kennedy Meadows, 240 miles prior. I hitched down to Yosemite Valley where I planned to meet my Aunt Lori and take a couple zeros. The place was as beautiful as expected, and I can see why it is one of the most visited national parks.

Usually I don’t write about my zeros, but this one was special as my dad surprised me in the park! I had no idea it was coming and was elated to see him.

We did a couple day hikes to some redwood trees and the base of Yosemite falls. All were fantastic, but before I knew it it was time to get back to the trail.

Now, I really wish I could tell you that the trail through Yosemite was one of my favorites given the location in the nation’s second national park. However, in reality it was a grueling slog with brutally steep climbs and river crossings meaning constant wet feet. Oh, and mosquitoes. Tons of them. The first day after Tuolumne Meadows was a simple walk through mostly mellow terrain with nice views.

After that was where the (not so) fun began. I hit Benson and Seavey passes, both brutal climbs with nice but underwhelming views at the top, considering the effort they took. The highlight of the day was Benson Lake, which had a perfect sandy beach which made it very hard to leave.

Benson Lake

That night at camp I entered mosquito hell. Seriously, if I stood still for any more than 10 seconds I was swarmed. Needless to say, I stayed in my tent for most of the night. The next day began with 2 short but ruthlessly steep climbs, then the terrain mellowed out for the gradual ascent to Dorothy Lakes pass. Still, the mosquitoes were swarming, including one meadow on the way up where they still managed to get me despite continuous walking and a decent breeze.

This meadow was beautiful, but there was no stopping or I would be swarmed.

Dorothy Lake and Dorothy Lakes pass were high enough for the mosquitoes to disappear. It was a huge relief, as I could enjoy the beautiful scenery and not worry about getting eaten alive.

Dorothy Lake

Dorothy Lakes Pass meant the end of Yosemite. Safe to say, it was pretty relieving to be done with the section. Just before camp that day though, I saw this:

Yes, I had walked 1,000 miles. I felt hugely accomplished, but still have a long way to go. The next day was the final push to Kennedy Meadows North, which is often considered the end of the Sierra section of the PCT. It was actually one of my favorite days on trail, as it was only 16 miles but most of it was filled with sweet alpine views.

Now, I know at least some people reading this may be confused about Kennedy Meadows, given that I walked through Kennedy Meadows a few weeks ago. Truth is, it’s just confusing. The spots at the beginning and the end of the Sierra are both called Kennedy Meadows. I don’t know why, but that’s just how it is. With the Sierra under my belt, Northern California awaits.